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Liquid metal....
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mainstand



Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 29
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:50 pm    Post subject: Liquid metal.... Reply with quote
Seen this stuff about. Does it work? I'm hoping to fill my headset/headlight lens threads up & retap them.
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petemaisey



Joined: 20 Mar 2006
Posts: 353
LCGB Mem No: 647
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used the stuff but did not trust it on its own because the thread is so fine. What I did was to use it to hold an "L" shaped piece of Aluminium behind the original threaded block. I then tapped and drilled. It works fine.
It does not however look very glamourous.
I now use alloy welding rods (the manufacturer call them brazing rods) bought off the net and just re-build the block. A small gas torch is sufficient to do the job.
Pete
http://www.easyweld.com/store.cfm/did/28/Durafix-Easyweld-Rods
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Alan A



Joined: 23 Feb 2006
Posts: 336
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used Chemical Metal to fill and re-tap my headlight rim threads on my Li125, but they aren't under as much direct pressure as SX/TV or GP headsets, I wouldn't recommend it for them.

I did rebuild a snapped off corner of my horncasting with it too..so far it has held up fine, it is the bottom section where it is bolted through the legshield, as I stupidly sheared of that corner when trying to drill out a rusted bolt...
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mainstand



Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 29
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Alan A wrote:
I have used Chemical Metal to fill and re-tap my headlight rim threads on my Li125, but they aren't under as much direct pressure as SX/TV or GP headsets, I wouldn't recommend it for them.

I did rebuild a snapped off corner of my horncasting with it too..so far it has held up fine, it is the bottom section where it is bolted through the legshield, as I stupidly sheared of that corner when trying to drill out a rusted bolt...


Cheers. I dont really want to apply heat as its freshly painted, just a bit peeved at having to use 2 bigger screws for the bottom headset threads & I'd like them to match.
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stuworsley



Joined: 16 Oct 2006
Posts: 922
LCGB Mem No: 4376
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
i retapped my headlamp threads to m4 iirc......was a bit hairy and i was waiting for it to break but took my time and its now fine....been on and off about 10 times and still holds perfect...

stu
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Guy



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 736
LCGB Mem No: 3049
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Chemical metal isn't much cop at all. Just filler with metallic particles.

Use JBWeld. Used to be available at Halfords etc...but not any more. Easly availible on ebay though, around £5-6.....excellent stuff.
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Guy



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 736
LCGB Mem No: 3049
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
petemaisey wrote:

I now use alloy welding rods (the manufacturer call them brazing rods) bought off the net and just re-build the block. A small gas torch is sufficient to do the job.
Pete
http://www.easyweld.com/store.cfm/did/28/Durafix-Easyweld-Rods



NOw that looks interesting.....I have a cracked TV headset bottom and 2 tops with damaged threads....gotta be worth a try.
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TS1-200



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 276
LCGB Mem No: 432
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Are you talking about an SX/TV/GP headset, the threads that you screw into to hold the headlight/rim unit, if so the pop rivet method with the standard size thread tapped into it works brilliantly, it has been described on here a few times before,I can describe it if you want to.
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scooterlam



Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 120
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
1"x8 wood screws work well for me Laughing
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mainstand



Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 29
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
TS1-200 wrote:
Are you talking about an SX/TV/GP headset, the threads that you screw into to hold the headlight/rim unit, if so the pop rivet method with the standard size thread tapped into it works brilliantly, it has been described on here a few times before,I can describe it if you want to.


Be my guest mate. Very Happy
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kennyj100



Joined: 26 Feb 2006
Posts: 632
LCGB Mem No: 2884
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
the rivet method isthe dogs Very Happy
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sugarlump



Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 344
LCGB Mem No: 2309
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm gonna quote a previous post,,,
"I had a similar question, here's the thread ( within there is a link to the poprivit technique too). Funnily enough I was doing it for the second time tonight (devcon method) cause my tapping is $hit and in retrospect I would get a bead of ali weld dropped into the hole instead to have peace of mind. Headlight rim holes are M4 on an LI and M3 on SX/TV/Specials. Dont know GPs...
ben
http://forums.lcgb.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13642

I spend more time using the search function than looking at the new posts!
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beach bum



Joined: 20 Nov 2006
Posts: 349
LCGB Mem No: 3892
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
petemaisey wrote:
I have used the stuff but did not trust it on its own because the thread is so fine. What I did was to use it to hold an "L" shaped piece of Aluminium behind the original threaded block. I then tapped and drilled. It works fine.
It does not however look very glamourous.
I now use alloy welding rods (the manufacturer call them brazing rods) bought off the net and just re-build the block. A small gas torch is sufficient to do the job.
Pete
http://www.easyweld.com/store.cfm/did/28/Durafix-Easyweld-Rods


That is one impressive video for the product. Shocked Shocked Shocked From what they say about these rods they must be good for repairing engine cases as well. Laughing And so simple to use. Wink
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weller51



Joined: 19 Feb 2006
Posts: 130
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
pete do you think a heat gun would get up to the right temp Question
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sugarlump



Joined: 11 Jun 2006
Posts: 344
LCGB Mem No: 2309
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
beach bum wrote:
petemaisey wrote:
I have used the stuff but did not trust it on its own because the thread is so fine. What I did was to use it to hold an "L" shaped piece of Aluminium behind the original threaded block. I then tapped and drilled. It works fine.
It does not however look very glamourous.
I now use alloy welding rods (the manufacturer call them brazing rods) bought off the net and just re-build the block. A small gas torch is sufficient to do the job.
Pete
http://www.easyweld.com/store.cfm/did/28/Durafix-Easyweld-Rods


That is one impressive video for the product. Shocked Shocked Shocked From what they say about these rods they must be good for repairing engine cases as well. Laughing And so simple to use. Wink


Had to order some of that after the video, advertising works!
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